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After the Second World War, S&W began using one-letter prefixes on several models of revolvers. This practice was kick-started in April, 1942, when they ran out of numbers for the prewar.38 Military & Police revolvers and production had shifted to the wartime effort of providing military revolvers to the U.S.
And UK armed forces. This was the beginning of the ‘V’ (for Victory) prefix. Almost a million of these.38 caliber revolvers were made during the 1942-1945 period. Near the end of that run, an internal change was made in the lockworks, which was designated by an ‘S’.
So late war Victory models had an ‘SV’ prefix. When the war ended and civilian production picked up again, the postwar Military & Police revolvers got a simple ‘S’ prefix until the Victory number series ran out. (By “ran out,” I mean they reached 999,999. S&W had a policy of never going to more than 6 numeric digits in a serial number sequence.) So, in March, 1948, the company needed a new letter prefix for the.38 Military & Police line. The ‘C’ was chosen for this purpose.
No one seems to know why it was a ‘C’ and not some other letter, but ‘K’ had already been chosen for the target K frame series and ‘C’ apparently seemed a logical choice for the fixed sight K frame guns. The ‘C’ prefix remained in use for those revolvers until C999999 was reached at the end of 1967. It was replaced with a ‘D’ prefix in 1968. Meanwhile, N frame revolvers were given an ‘S’ prefix for the serial sequence. There was no conflict with the ‘S’ prefix assigned to fixed sight K frame guns because the N frame numbers were much lower, continuing a number sequence for prewar N frame guns that did not have a prefix. The ‘S’ numbers on N frame guns lasted until late 1969, when they were discontinued at S333454 and were replaced with ‘N’ prefixes, beginning with N1.
Small frame revolvers - I frame and J frame - did not have a letter prefix in the serial number until 1969. By then, the I frame had been completely phased out and all small frame revolvers were built on the J frame. At that time, they were assigned a ‘J’ prefix, which, with variations, remained in use until 1983. In 1983, the discreet serial prefixes were discarded in favor of a scheme that was common to all S&W revolvers, regardless of frame size or caliber.
This new number scheme used three letters and four numeric digits. This practice is still in use. The key point to remember for Gun Values Board queries is that if your S&W revolver has a letter in front of the serial number, that letter is part of the number. When posting a S&W serial number in a quest for a shipping date, do not fail to include the letter. If you leave it out, we will most likely misidentify your revolver and will not be able to accurately estimate the year it left the factory.
What do you think?. David Drake: Great information. I have a S&W 38 Sp.
CTG with a SV number (SV 772xxx) trying to date it. You were the only reference i found with the SV stated. However it is a 3 screw fixed sight revolver (M&P?) which still is baffling me. However still researching. If you can offer a suggestion or approximate date it would be helpful.
More info: has model number - when cylinder is open there are 2 different numbers and the cylinder has a different number, likely part numbers. To me it may be a salvaged re-manufactured revolver. Thanks David.
JP@AK: David Your.38 Military & Police revolver, with serial number SV772xxx, could have left the factory any time between about December, 1945, and April, 1946. It mostly depends on where it went. Some revolvers in this serial range went to the U.S. Navy and most of those shipped in December, ‘45 or January, ‘46. Those that went to civilian distributors left later, many in March, 1946.
This was sort of a 'transition' period between military shipments and the resumption of civilian arms production. Your revolver will have a 5 screw frame, not 3. Cours gestion commerciale. You have to know where to look to find the other two screws.
That is more information than I normally would have provided in a blog post response. The proper place for asking questions is on the forum, not in the blog section.
If you want to post some pictures and ask further about your revolver, please go here: It also would help a lot if you post the complete serial number. Photos would be a huge help, especially if you show the top of the gun, above the cylinder. JP@AK: Dennis Unfortunately, a blog post is not the best place to ask about a specific revolver.
Please go to the S&W forum category here at the GVB and repost your question. I’ll be glad to deal with it there. Be sure to include the caliber marking from the barrel. If it is a.38 Special, then it is truly a J frame. If not, it may be an I frame, which was the predecessor to the J. Most I frame revolvers were not changed to the slightly larger J frame until the early 1960s. Here is a link to the correct category for your question: Post pictures if you can.
That will usually help quite a bit in making an identification. JP@AK: Paranoia in most cases. Many people have the idea that if they post a complete serial number, someone will be able to use it to steal their guns. But no one has ever been able to document any instance where this has actually happened. For identification purposes, it is much, much better to provide the complete serial number. In the case of S&W handguns (and Winchester rifles, too), the factory can determine exactly what day, month and year a particular gun left the factory (I think with Winchesters it is the date it was serialized in the polishing room). But unless someone provides all the letters and digits in the serial number, this cannot be done.
JP@AK: 'Do the last three indicate the production number or just part of the date code?' There really isn’t a 'date code' like you have with, say, Marlin.
S&W used various serial sequences on different model groups. In the case of the K series, it was used on postwar target model K frames (K-38,.38 Combat Masterpiece, Model 66 etc.). They were more or less issued in numerical order, but there were exceptions because batches of numbers were assigned to individual models. For example K270000-K295000 might be set aside for the K-38, while K295001-K325000 might be designated for the Combat Magnum. If a run of Combat Magnums was scheduled for assembly before a run of K-38 Masterpieces, the higher numbers might be used first.
(That is an off-the-cuff example and likely isn’t accurate.) In the case of your number, 2K65927 would probably have been used just after 2K65926 and just before 2K65928, so it reveals a sequence. It has nothing to do with dates. To further illustrate the matter (and these are actual numbers), in 1972 2K55997 through 2K99999 were used. But so were 4K1 through 4K1627 and 3K31280 through 5K6616. Then, in 1973, 4K1628 through 4K54104 and 5K6617 through 5K73962 were used. Then, in 1974, 4K54105 through 4K99999 were used, along with 5K73963 through 6K58917. So the 4K numbers were used in three different years, but in sequence.
Lots of overlap and it was partly because of the batch system for different models, together with production quotas for each those models. Production quotas for each model were established largely by demand projections.
I hope all this makes sense. JPinAK: Hi 'Pre 1942' Three matters here: 1.
A blog comment isn’t the right place to get details on a particular gun. For that, please post your question here: 2. You will have to provide quite a bit more information about your grandmother’s gun. What you wrote here is insufficient for us to determine what it is. At the very least we need the complete serial number.
'Starts with a 3' is no help at all. Pictures would be worth a lot in identifying it.
The 'handles' are not Bakelite. They are black hard rubber; Gutta Percha, to be exact.
The Victory Model Smith and Wesson.38 Caliber Revolver The revolvers of the U.S. Armed forces have always been under appreciated by collectors, the good news is that makes them relatively inexpensive to acquire, but this is changing. At a recent trip to the 2003 Louisville gun show I noticed prices on Victory revolvers had increased noticeably. That being said you might want to consider adding a few Victory models to your USGI collection.
While the information I provide below can be helpful please see the list on the bottom of this page for reference material you should have if you are going to collect these historical pieces. The Victory model revolvers participated in various roles from guard duty to riding in a shoulder holster with fighter and bomber pilots. I have talked to many ex-military personnel that carried them as late as the 1980s, as you can see these pistols played a significant part of our history. To this day the Victory model is a very enjoyable shooting collectible, mainly due to its inexpensive cost, light recoil, and good accuracy.
Enjoy and happy collecting, Ty The Victory model was so named for the 'V' prefix which was placed before the serial number and represented 'Victory' against the Axis powers in World War II. Serial numbers for the.38 special Victory model began at about V1 in early 1942 and ran until VS811119 with a date of late August of 1945 (end of production). V1 to approximately V39,999 were predominately.38 S&W Caliber (I have observed revolvers in the 1-40000 range in.38 special caliber).
Serial numbers are located on Inside right grip, frame butt, Cylinder, extractor star, and bottom of barrel. Crane and crane recess are also serial numbered to each other, but this is a different number then the revolvers serial number as is correct for Victory model revolvers. The Victory Revolver was produced during World War II, it is a variation of the Military & Police Model of 1905, fourth change and had the following characteristics between 1942 and 1945: Barrel: 2, 4, 5, or 6 inch. (4 inch common in.38 special, 5 inch common in 38/200 or.38 S&W) Sights: Fixed Finish: Early sandblast blue, sandblast mid-night black (appears grayish black). And finally a parkerized finish.
Hammer and Trigger are case hardened. Grips: Checkered walnut with medallion until early 1942, post February of 1942 they are smooth American Walnut with out medallions. Ordnance acceptance marks: The acceptance mark varies with the particulars of the order placed. Navy orders you will find no acceptance marks on the original two contracts they placed. On later Navy revolvers, ordered through the Army they will be found with the more typical Army G.H.D.
Acceptance mark. Below you will find some of the common stamps with links to examples. The acceptance mark of Ordnance officer Waldemar Bromberg is located on the butt (to about serial number V145000).
Just to the right of the acceptance mark (W.B.) is usually found an ordnance bomb and proof mark. The 'P' proof mark indicates this revolver has passed military proof testing. EXAMPLE – G.H.D – From approximately 1942 to about May 1943 the acceptance mark of Ordnance officer Guy H. Drewry is found on the butt. From approximately V300000 to end of production G.H.D is found on the left top strap; EXAMPLE – Property marks: The most common property marks found on the Victory model are the UNITED STATES PROPERTY, US PROPERTY, and the US NAVY markings.
UNITED STATES PROPERTY – Found on left top strap to approximately V300000 and on the M&Ps pre Victory. Applied at the S&W factory. Example - U.S. PROPERTY – The property mark was shortened to 'U.S. PROPERTY' at about serial number V300000. At this time the G.H.D acceptance mark was moved from the butt to the left top strap with the property mark.
Applied at the S&W factory. EXAMPLE – U.S. NAVY – Found on the revolvers left top strap as per the two Navy contracts. The Navy also applied a Property mark on the left side plate on some revolvers; these were filled in with red paint. This is not an S&W applied marking.
EXAMPLE – and. Victory models have also been produced with out property marks, these revolvers were probably delivered by the U.S. Defense Supply Corporation (DSC) to defense contractors and public agencies that required them for guarding war sensitive materials.
Other common markings: S - Revolvers that have the 'S' marking on the right side plate as well as before the serial number on the butt have the improved hammer block installed. If the 'S' in the serial number on the butt appears to be machine applied this would indicate it was produced with improved hammer block, and that it was not added later or it would have been hand stamped. The improved hammer block was put into production after an accidental discharge killed a sailor during World War II. This improved hammer block is still utilized in today's commercial Smith and Wesson revolvers.
EXAMPLE – P – Proof marking. This can very depending on the contract.
Navy marked pistols usually have none. Pates books indicate that some delivered under an Army contract could be found with a P mark.
Post the V400,000 serial number range they are located on the underside of the barrel, back of the cylinder and left side plate. The later appear to be Army Supply Program contract revolvers. EXAMPLE – Serial Numbers: Serial numbers are located on the inside right grip, frame butt, Cylinder, extractor star, and bottom of grip.
Serial numbers should be matching on all revolvers. Crane and Crane recess are also serial numbered to each other, but this is a different number then the revolvers serial number and is correct for Victory model revolvers.
Grip/Stock EXAMPLE – Barrel EXAMPLE – Cylinder EXAMPLE – Extractor Start EXAMPLE – Butt EXAMPLE – Production: 38/200 British Service Revolver (S&W Caliber) - There were over 571,629 of these models produced between October 1941 and May 1945 for the British Common wealth countries. These countries include the Union of South Africa (21,347), Canada (45,328), and Australia (8,000).
The remaining 384,100 shipped between 1941 and the end of World War II were supplied by the U.S. Army Ordnance through the lend lease program to Britain for distribution. Victory model 38 Special – 352,000 shipped to the Army and Navy. Some of these were shipped to a commission responsible for supplying the civilian industries.
They will usually have no property marks. Uses included guarding factories, ports, and federal/local government agencies. Note: You can find all kinds of variations, with additional war and post war markings. These include rebuild markings, country ownership markings, unit markings, and much more. For a complete listing see the books referenced below. Recommended reading: US Handguns of WW II - The Secondary Pistols and Revolvers by Charles W.
Pate Americas Right Arm - The S&W Military and Police Revolver by John Henwood Smith and Wesson 1857 - 1945 by Robert J. Neal and Roy G.
I did some gun trading today and I traded for a Smith&Wesson old school model 66 (stainless, 4' tube, K-frame,.357 magnum)with the hammer mounted firing pin. The gun is in amazingly good shape, and has seen limited use. It's marked model 66-l (66 and a simple vertical line. I don't know if the vertical line is a lower case 'L', an upper case 'I' or a numeral '1'. It has a serrated trigger, the old school cylinder catch, oversize Goncalo Alvez grips, and the chambers are countersunk (which is cooler than the frozen level of hell!). Can anyone tell me when it was made? P.S.: It also has a pinned barrel if that helps.
Click to expand. Hello Ballbearing Not to Tinkle on your Corn Flake's here, but they made a Boat Load of Model 66's. They are the son of the Famous carbon steel K-Frame Model 19 that came in blued or nickel finish. S&W makes the best.357 Magnum revolver out there, and why wouldn't they as they were the first to offer the.357 Magnum Caliber way back in 1935 in the larger N-Frame configuration.
Now here is one you don't come across every day it is a First Year 1935 Registered Magnum one of only 720 Built the very first year and it shipped on December 13,1935 I suppose as a Christmas Present. Douglas Wesson who was then the Vice President of S&W Gambled on creating these Thourobred hand gun's after coming out of a Major depression as they got off to a Slow start with only 720 of them being made the first year of 1935, and understandably so as they sold for a Price of $61.00 back then and were the most expensive had gun that S&W offered. These gun's were a custom order customer built hand gun back then you could have gotten any barrel length from 3-1/2' which mine is, to a barrel length of 8-3/4' offered in 1/4' Increment's.
They offered these in Blued or Nickel with various stock's and sights. Mine is shown wearing the new Then, Magna style stock's and has the Patridge sight blade, as it was made before the Baughman quick draw sight blade was born, which we saw later on in 1937 When Famed FBI Agent Frank Baughman requested S&W to make a sight blade of his own design of which he provided a mechanical drawing of. They made these Registered Magnum's from 1935-1938 time span and when you got one from S&W they sent a Registration form for the new owner to fill out and return to the factory. Once the factory got the filled out Owner Registration form they sent the new owner a Registration certificate with his name and address on it, along with the gun's serial number, Barrel length and what ammo was used to sight it in and at what distance specified by the customer. This was S&W's way of making your Purchase a Personal one and it also offered a Life time service warranty on the gun. By 1938 The order's for these gun's were pouring in at an alarming rate so S&W ceased the Registration process and stopped stamping the gun's frame are with REG.
Numbers.For Larger Pictures, click on the gun Pictures below.Hammerdown. Hello Ballbearing Not to Tinkle on your Corn Flake's here, but they made a Boat Load of Model 66's.
They are the son of the Famous carbon steel K-Frame Model 19 that came in blued or nickel finish. S&W makes the best.357 Magnum revolver out there, and why wouldn't they as they were the first to offer the.357 Magnum Caliber way back in 1935 in the larger N-Frame configuration.
![]() Smith Wesson Model 13-3 Serial Number Lookup
Now here is one you don't come across every day it is a First Year 1935 Registered Magnum one of only 720 Built the very first year and it shipped on December 13,1935 I suppose as a Christmas Present. Douglas Wesson who was then the Vice President of S&W Gambled on creating these Thourobred hand gun's after coming out of a Major depression as they got off to a Slow start with only 720 of them being made the first year of 1935, and understandably so as they sold for a Price of $61.00 back then and were the most expensive had gun that S&W offered. These gun's were a custom order customer built hand gun back then you could have gotten any barrel length from 3-1/2' which mine is, to a barrel length of 8-3/4' offered in 1/4' Increment's. They offered these in Blued or Nickel with various stock's and sights. Mine is shown wearing the new Then, Magna style stock's and has the Patridge sight blade, as it was made before the Baughman quick draw sight blade was born, which we saw later on in 1937 When Famed FBI Agent Frank Baughman requested S&W to make a sight blade of his own design of which he provided a mechanical drawing of.
They made these Registered Magnum's from 1935-1938 time span and when you got one from S&W they sent a Registration form for the new owner to fill out and return to the factory. Once the factory got the filled out Owner Registration form they sent the new owner a Registration certificate with his name and address on it, along with the gun's serial number, Barrel length and what ammo was used to sight it in and at what distance specified by the customer. This was S&W's way of making your Purchase a Personal one and it also offered a Life time service warranty on the gun.
By 1938 The order's for these gun's were pouring in at an alarming rate so S&W ceased the Registration process and stopped stamping the gun's frame are with REG. Numbers.For Larger Pictures, click on the gun Pictures below.Hammerdown. Click to expand. That is a god-awfully beautiful N-frame!
I was kidding about the gun being rare (hence the smilies), I knew it wasn't, or the guy at the gun shop would have had it priced a lot higher than he did. You don't see N-frames for sale very often, not even the mass produced, CNC machine wonders that Smith&Wesson puts out these days, it's rare to see an old one in any kind of shape, and when you do, it's always way out of your price range. I was lucky to get the K-frame that I did. I only hope I can take care of mine as well as you have taken care of yours.
Thanks for your quick reply. This is an excellent condition revolver and the price is right.
I have been researching revolvers online for a couple of months. Was considering buying a Taurus or Ruger, but this one just fell in my lap.
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I mentioned to a friend at church that I was looking for a.357 and he said he had just gotten this one in trade for services rendered. He is asking $450 and from what I've seen on the internet this is an excellent price for this revolver. I have also been looking for m66's the past 6 months, primarily on GB. I have been looking for a piece in the 90-95% range and first found a nice M66-3 4' for $500. And ended up selling it after I found a m66 no dash 4' for $480. I found both on GB so the prices don't include the usual $50-$60 associated cost which you won't have. So bottom line, you have a GREAT DEAL!
Model 17 Smith Wesson Serial Number Lookup
On top of that one of the smoothest double action.357's out there. Here are the two I mentioned, the second being the m66 no dash all cleaned, polished and ready to shoot.' BUY IT NOW '.
Amanda106 and firebug085: At the top of every subsection under Smith and Wesson Revolvers on the home page is a section is a sticky entitled 'To IDENTIFY Your Gun.' This will explain the information we need to help you with your questions. Pictures are always of great value in the process. Also, you should start your own thread in the appropriate subforum with a title like Help with Grandpa's old Revolver, or 'Mfg date of Model 60' Oh, welcome to the forum. It's a great place with very knowledgable participants. Firebug085, The serial number range that contains your model 60 is 1974 to 1977: R100000 to R190000. I can extrapolate to guess that yours was late 1974 to early 1975, but that's a WAG.
Others may have better information.
Many people have questions about how to identify a S&W revolver and when was it made. I borrowed this from a thread on Highroad.org forum.
It has a lot of info that might be of interest to many of you. Identifying features: This is where to look for the model number (not used until around 1957).
Sometimes the serial number is here, especially in later models. Earlier models have them here: S&W revolver names before World War II Name Caliber Frame.22 Hand Ejector Ladysmith 22 Long M.22/32 Target 22 Long Rifle I.22 Outdoorsman 22 Long Rifle K.32 Hand Ejector (round Butt) 32 S&W Long I.32 Regulation Police (Square Butt) 32 S&W Long I.32-20 Hand Ejector 32-20 Win. K.38 Military&Police 38 Spl K.38 Hand Ejector (same as above, with adjustable sights).38 Regulation Police (Square Butt) 38 S&W I.38 Terrier 2' Round Butt 38 S&W I.38/44 Heavy Duty (fixed sights) 38 Spl N.38/44 Outdoorsman (Adj. Sights) 38 Spl N.357 Magnum 357 Mag N.44 HAnd Ejector Military Model 44 Spl N.44 Hand ejector Model 1926 44 Spl N (shrouded extractor rod).45 U.S. Posting above continued here. DATING A S&W Please note that this list is a general guide and not meant to be exact. There is some dispute regarding the dates on some serial numbers and your gun may actually be a year off from what is listed.
The precise shipping date as 'lettered' can be several years off depending on model. For the exact date on your gun request the letter from S&W Historian Roy Jinks. Pre-War N frame. Year/Beginning Serial 1908.1919 None-1936. STUMPED and couldn't sleep. Can't install flash on safari.
I have a S&W Revolver given to me in the 1990's. It has never been fired since I have owned it. It shows significant holster and carry wear but is in good shape. The problem is I have NO idea what I have. The serial numbers have no letters, it has a lanyard strap in the grip butt and Trade Mark is on the right side.
Not looking for value as it is sentimental. Thanks for ANY advice or direction, Matt THANKS TO EVERYONE! FPrice is going to help explain. This is a quandry with what we found. The quandary: THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE! I have been pointed towards this video which was on American Rifleman. The video is slightly less specific about the Victory Model but is interesting.
When I find out more I will let you know. STUMPED and couldn't sleep. I have a S&W Revolver given to me by a widow in the 1990's. It has never been fired since I have owned it.
It shows significant holster and carry wear but is in good shape. The problem is I have NO idea what I have. The serial numbers have no letters, it has a lanyard strap in the grip butt and Trade Mark is on the right side. Is there anyone that I can send photos to that may be able to help me? I don't have the means to send a request to S&W currently. OR a local dealer very knowledgeable about Smith's who are not going to make a sale?
(Metro Boston) Not looking for value as it is sentimental. Please feel free to email me it that is easier. Thanks for ANY advice or direction, Matt.
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